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9 January 2010

Fiji: So beautiful, its deafening - Press and Journal.co.uk

Fiji: so beautiful, it’s deafening

Xenia Gregoriadis discovered what paradise is all about and lived the celebrity life on a mind-blowing holiday in Fiji

Published: 09/01/2010

IF YOUR experience of nature’s bounty is limited to shrink-wrapped tropical fruit and exotic shower gels, the wondrous reality of Fiji will take some getting used to.

Mangoes and coconuts fall at your feet on this glistening archipelago in the South Pacific, while flame-red hibiscus and fragrant frangipani bloom all around you.

It’s about as close to paradise as you can get.

With more than 800 islands (fewer than 200 are inhabited), it really is postcard perfect: languid sandy beaches, turquoise water, palm trees bending lazily in the breeze, thick rainforest and those truly epic skies.

My first sight of a magnificent Fijian dawn was almost deafening due to the sheer volume of colour and beauty.

Perhaps this natural abundance explains why Fijians, despite their relative poverty, radiate a rare and solid warmth and greet visitors with a high-spirited “Bula” (hello) like long-lost members of one large extended family. They are famous for their incredible generosity of spirit.

It took almost 30 hours and three plane rides to reach our first destination, the Namale resort in the north of Vanua Levu, one of the two main islands. No wonder it is popular with the Hollywood jet-set – Meg Ryan is a regular – and wealthy newlyweds from Australia and America.

My room for a couple of magical nights was the honeymoon suite or “bure” (pronounced boor-eh), which is the name given to the traditional thatched-hut-like dwellings that are everywhere in Fiji.

Perched on top of a large volcanic rock, this one has a hot tub big enough for two. Picture Meg Ryan and a leading man of your choice flinging open the bedroom door and tripping the light fantastic across a little bridge on to a private balcony and an electric blue infinity pool overlooking the ocean.

On the secluded beach below hangs another double bed, which swings to the rhythm of the waves.

Although Namale is described as “affordable” luxury, the cheapest bure at just under $1,000 (about £610) per night makes this a pretty exclusive place to stay.

Having said that, there are tempting deals for group bookings. You could actually get married in Namale to treat your closest friends and family to the trip of a lifetime for less than the average cost of a UK wedding.

Another ideal spot for honeymooners – we counted at least six such couples at breakfast – is a resort called Qamea, located on a tiny islet of the same name.

Here the bures, which are everywhere in Fiji, are closer knit than in Namale and as a result the atmosphere is a little livelier.

Staff mix easily with the guests, and in the evenings everyone comes together in the bar to drink cold beer or kava – the relaxing, intoxicating brew which Fijians drink like tea – and to listen to the musicians, better known as Band Boys.

One of the best things about Qamea is the Jungle Spa, which does exactly what it says on the tin. A warm seashell massage in one of the treatment bures during a heavy downpour was a unique experience, especially the part where, wrapped only in a towel, I had to find my way back to the reception area in the dark, dodging raindrops the size of apples and an army of belching toads hopping around my feet. What an amazing feeling.

Of course, it is all too easy to cocoon yourself in the lush surrounds of resorts like these, but there is a lot to do besides sipping cocktails under the stars.

Adventurous backpackers might fancy zip-lining in the jungle or shark diving in Pacific Harbour.

Surrounded by miles of soft coral reef, the island offers unparalleled snorkelling and scuba diving opportunities.

If you have time and money for just one organised activity, though, I suggest the Sigatoka River Safari, an award-winning tour operation devised by a young American called Jay Whyte.

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